Tree service questions, answered

Yes. The estimate costs nothing and there's no obligation to hire us.

We call back as soon as we can, and urgent and storm requests go to the front of the line. After a hurricane or widespread storm damage, response times are longer for everyone in the area.

Yes, and please do. Photos of the whole tree and anything under it help us give you a more accurate price, sometimes before we even come out.

Pensacola and the surrounding area: Escambia County, including Ferry Pass, Bellview, Brent, Myrtle Grove, Warrington, Cantonment and Perdido Key, plus Gulf Breeze, Pace, Milton and Navarre in Santa Rosa County.

Ask for a written price that says what's included — cleanup, wood, stump — how they will protect your lawn and structures, and for proof of liability insurance.

It depends heavily on size, access and what the tree could fall on. Small trees in open yards can be a few hundred dollars; large trees over a house or pool can run into the thousands. See the cost guide for typical ranges.

No. We use your information to handle your job. See the privacy page for details.

A small to medium tree in an open yard is often done in a few hours. A large tree over a house, done in sections, can take most of a day. Stump grinding is usually quick once the tree is down.

Some marks from equipment are normal, especially when the ground is soaked after heavy rain. We'll talk through how to protect your lawn at the estimate — ground mats, or waiting for the ground to dry out when that makes sense.

Usually, yes. Ask for the wood to be cut into rounds and left on site. That often lowers the price because there is less to haul.

If a tree is dead, rotten or has a large defect over the house, yes — deal with it in winter or spring. Once a storm is in the forecast, every crew in the area is booked and a removal can turn into an emergency job.

Most mature shade trees do well with a check every 3–5 years. Younger trees benefit from lighter, more frequent pruning to set a strong structure. Palms usually need dead fronds removed once or twice a year.

No tree is hurricane-proof, but removing dead wood, thinning dense canopies and reducing heavy limbs over the house can lower the odds of damage.

Yes. The goal with a live oak is to reduce weight and clear structures while keeping a full, natural canopy. That means shortening long limbs back to a healthy side branch rather than topping or stripping the inside of the tree.

Winter and early spring, before hurricane season starts June 1. Dead or hazardous limbs can be taken off any time.

Usually, yes. Brush is chipped and hauled unless you'd like the chips left for mulch, which can lower the price.

In Florida you can generally trim branches that cross onto your property, back to the property line, as long as you don't kill or seriously damage the tree. It's best to talk to your neighbor first.

Often around $100–$400 per stump, depending on diameter, roots and access, with discounts for multiple stumps. See the cost guide for more.

Most hardwood stumps won't once ground. Some trees send up sprouts from the roots for a while; those can be cut or mowed until the roots die.

Yes, once the grindings are removed and the hole is filled with soil. Plant slightly off-center from the old stump if you can.

Yes. Send an urgent request with photos. After a major storm, trees on houses, blocked driveways and hazards are handled first.

The utility. Call them first and stay away. Once the line is safe, we can handle the rest of the tree.

Generally, damage to your property is handled by your own insurance, unless the tree was obviously dead or dangerous and the neighbor knew about it. Talk to your insurance company.

Let us know in the request. Tree removal comes first; we can tell you what's needed for the roof once the tree is off.

It varies widely with size, density and how much is hauled off. A site visit is needed for a firm price. Share the approximate acreage and photos for a ballpark.

Yes. Selective and underbrush clearing is common, especially on wooded lots in Pace, Milton and Navarre.

Often, depending on the city or county and what's on the lot. Check with your local building or planning office before clearing.

Common signs are a thinning or dead top, branches that don't leaf out, mushrooms at the base, cracks, cavities, and bark falling off. One sign alone doesn't always mean the tree is dying, so it's worth having it looked at.

Mushrooms at the base usually mean decay in the roots or lower trunk. How serious it is depends on how much sound wood is left, which takes an inspection. On a tree near the house, take it seriously.

A tree that has always leaned and has a stable root plate is often fine. A new lean, especially after a storm or heavy rain with cracked or raised soil on one side, can mean the roots are failing and should be checked right away.

Florida law generally lets you remove a tree on residential property without a local permit if an ISA Certified Arborist or a Florida-licensed landscape architect documents that it's a danger. Check with your city or county, and keep the documentation.

There isn't a general free program, but it's worth asking your local Council on Aging or community action agency — some run home repair or assistance programs that occasionally cover hazardous trees. Your utility may also remove trees that are a hazard to its lines at no charge.

Usually only when a tree damages a covered structure. A dead tree that hasn't fallen is typically the homeowner's cost. See the storm damage page for details.

Demand spikes after a major storm, and emergency work costs more than scheduled work. Handling risky trees before the season is usually the cheapest option.